A lot more than Little Italy

Known by locals as Melbourne's very own Little Italy, Lygon Street has embraced new Islamic and Arabic businesses, establishing new cultural customs and practices on the street, writes Alannah May

It is Melbourne's most famous dining street -- and the long-time Italian mecca of Lygon Street is becoming a destination for more than just pasta and gelati.

The Carlton strip has been famously known by many as authentically Italian since the 1950s.

Described by the City Of Melbourne as “Little Italy” and “the place where Melbourne's famous cafe culture was born”, Lygon street's reputation as Italian is as long as it is famous.

But walking down Lygon Street in 2024 reveals a different experience.

From the north of Elgin Street to the south of Queensberry Street, visitors can expect to see a spectrum of storefronts, from large chains to independently owned businesses. Alongside the iconic Italian cafes and restaurants is a wide range of other cuisines, from Egyptian to Pakistani; customers have an extensive range of options.

Leyalina is an Egyptian restaurant which has found its home on Lygon Street for nine years now.

Nader Tawfek, owner and manager of Leyalina, says: “I remember when I came to Australia that all of Lygon Street was Italian.”

Mr Tawfek has witnessed first-hand the openings of many other Islamic businesses alongside his own.

“People feel now that Lygon Street is different, different foods, different cultures… and that’s how we love it.”

Leyalina serves an authentic Egyptian experience, with a wide range of food options, accompanied by Arabic music and shisha pipes. 

Because of the current economy, especially post COVID-19 pandemic, many businesses have had to shut their doors -- but Pakistani restaurant Ziyka has managed to thrive, having opened on Lygon Street at the beginning of the first Victorian lockdown in 2020.

“Before, this street was known as Little Italy, but now we have a lot of Pakistani and Indian cuisines down here,” says the manager, Shanawar.

“if you need anything, you can get it on the Lygon Street”, from cappuccinos to biryani, your breakfast, lunch, and dinner are sorted."

The Ziyka storefront, where signage states that the food is halal. Photo: Alannah May

Leyalina and Ziyka were both able to survive the economic hardships caused by Victorian lockdowns and are thriving in 2024, with people from all walks of life enjoying the beautiful restaurant atmosphere that these businesses have curated. The delicious food served may be familiar or new to customers; either way, it is enjoyable for all.

Italian pride on Lygon Street certainly still exists as businesses showcase the colours of the Italian flag through light-up displays. Cafe Coretto even displays a red Ferrari suspended in the air above guests and lots of Ferrari signage in their pizza restaurant, showing off the Italian luxury car brand as a symbol of Italy. Tiamo, a successful restaurant, has been open on Lygon Street since the late 70s and is still a packed-out venue during dinner periods. 

Woodfired pizza oven and a Ferrari car, symbols of Italy, at Cafe Coretto’s storefront. Photo: Alannah May 

Some fear Lygon Street is in danger of losing some of its traditional charm.

Corinne op’t Hoog, local of Carlton for nearly 30 years, provides insight into how Lygon Street differs from the 80s to today.

“I think there was a lot of family businesses back in the 80s… Italian businesses really thrived and those have been the surviving businesses”.

Ms op’t Hoog notes the opening of a 7/11 and how this was the first of many chains she saw open. The street is now home to chain businesses such as Mecca Cosmetica, Grill’d and Ezymart. 

But the Islamic and Italian businesses are still some of the most popular on the strip.

Since the 50s and the initial openings of Italian restaurants and cafes, Italian migrants felt included on Lygon Street, as they could hang out with other Italians and remind themselves of home. As Australian migration patterns have changed, many immigrants coming to Australia nowadays are from countries that practise Islam.

It seems that the businesses on Lygon Street represent the changing communities of immigrants in Australia. 

Lights in the colours and order of the Italian flag outside Italian restaurant Criniti’s. Photo: Alannah May

As of 2023, migrants make up approximately 30% of the Australian population, and they also account for one third of the small business owners in Australia. Many well-educated and skilled immigrants struggle to find work in Australia, as many employers are puzzled by the complexities of the migration system. Because of this, a lot of immigrants resort to opening small businesses to stay self employed. Lygon Street’s history of successfully run immigrant establishments is most likely why it is in demand for the owners of new businesses. 

Lygon Street has always been a place where migrant-owned businesses can thrive, a meeting spot where anyone from anywhere can experience delicious cuisine from a variety of cultures.